Burma: The Land Time Forgot -May 30th, 2008
Traveling Overseas
How-to and Where-to Travel Around the World
“This is Burma, and it will be quite unlike any land you know about…”
Rudyard Kipling, Letters from the East (1898)
As Kipling noted, Burma is a rare country in every sense of the word. A journey to the country is akin to traveling in a time machine, transporting the voyager from the new world to the old; to a land time forgot. Alas, the country Kipling knew and loved, Burma, has been transformed, and not for the better. The country, now referred to as Myanmar, has gotten a great deal of press lately, unfortunately for all the wrong reasons.
If writing about the country, it is impossible to do so without addressing the reasons why Burma has received so much negative press. If you plan to visit the country, you will travel upon this backdrop.
For a total of nearly 13 years, the country’s military regime has held pro-democracy activist Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest. Fearful of the power she wields, the junta refuses to release her. In September of last year, approximately 100,000 people, including several thousand Buddhist monks, marched through Yangon and Mandalay in a peaceful promotion of democracy. Burmese troops broke up the demonstrations, beating and detaining those involved.
Rated one of the 20 poorest countries in the world, Myanmar suffered yet another crippling blow when Cyclone Nargis claimed upwards of 130,000 lives and left more than two million homeless. The always-cynical junta denied aid to those who needed it, further compounding the tragedy.
My first trip to Burma came in 2001; the first thing I noticed was the isolation. Connecting to the internet was never easy; often the only method of connecting to my email account was to use a proxy. Banned were the email services Hotmail, Yahoo, Gmail, and many others we take for granted. Websites such as CNN, the BBC and even the Bangkok Post were blocked. Pepsi and Coke were hard to find, instead you could savor a Burmese substitute. There were no McDonald’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut, or Taco Bell – although this isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
If you happened across a billboard, it was a government propaganda blurb. The one I distinctly remember informed people they should love their government because their government cares and is the hand that feeds them. Clearly, big brother is fond of flexing it’s muscle.
Despite the countries’ remoteness and quirks, I quickly grew fond of the place. I stayed at the Traders Hotel for my first trip. Since it was my initial outing, my thinking was if I stayed at one of the better hotels, I would have an easier time than if I were to stay at a budget hotel. The Traders is a 4 to 5-star hotel depending on whom you believe, but I paid $55 and was quite happy with it. The rate currently runs $90-$100.
Now mind you, this was my first trip. As with any country, there is a feel to the place; street merchants line up on nearly every street in the city central to sell their wares; there are bells and whistles, people shouting, and unusual smells permeate the thick and heavy air. Men and women walk around in longyi, or sarong; a sheet of cloth sewn together at the ends to form a cylinder. The longyi is to Burmese what Levi’s are to Americans, everyday wear. Velvet sandals are also par for the course for both men and women. Supposedly, if a woman has long hair, she is single. If her hair is short, she is married. Apparently, once a woman has married, she will cut her hair so it’s easier to do the housework. Some Burmese laughed when I asked about this, but there did seem to be some merit to this.
It was hot – so very, very hot. In fact, Burma is never cool. The moment I stepped out of my hotel room, I began sweating. By the time, I walked to the elevator, and then outside, I was drenched. Ordinarily it’s my practice to carry a daypack, and as hot as it was, I made sure to throw in a hand towel and a clean shirt each time I went anywhere. When you walk outside and your skin immediately sizzles, exploring a new city is a chore. Choosing a restaurant becomes more to do with “is there air-conditioning,” more than, “what’s a good place to eat.”
Unlike other Asian countries, it’s difficult to flag down Burmese taxi’s, unless, like me, you had a guide. Worn out taxis rarely have working air-conditioning and a 15 minute ride is like a 30 minute sauna.
Concerning my guide - on my first trip, I was fortunate to meet a young man whom I shall call Adnan. While trying to gain my bearings in the city of Yangon, I walked past the train station (sweating profusely of course).
“Hey, my friend, where are you going” the young man said.
Used to the touts in Thailand and Cambodia, I kept walking and muttered under my breath, “Why?” He followed me – something I normally abhor. Instead of telling him to get lost, I sensed something about him was different. “Maybe I can help you, translate for you, show you around” he said. I made a snap decision and asked “How much?”
“How much can you give me?” he responded.
I stopped and a few minutes later, we had sealed the deal. He would be paid $100 for a week. We started each day between 9:00 and 10:00 AM and our time would end in the early evening, or possibly, much later. He took me to local restaurants, helped me negotiate deals with vendors and translated much more than I expected. Late at night, we went out on the town; to a fashion show at the Asia Hotel, to JJ’s nightclub, and the discotheque, if you can call it that, at the Park Hotel. I have forgotten many places, but without Adnan, I doubt my time in Yangon would have been as enjoyable or trouble-free.
I’ve now been to Burma more than a dozen times. Along the way, I’ve become good friends with Adnan and several other Burmese. The isolated setting, unusual backdrop, and relatively few tourists make any trip an adventure in itself. Burma – unlike any land you’ll ever know.
Nick Gatsby has lived in Bangkok for nearly a dozen years. He has done everything from teaching English to exporting Thai goods to his current love, photographing and writing about Southeast Asia . He is now married with children (2).
